Nevada falls, half dome and liberty bell during sunrise

Chapter 1

Happy Isles to Tuolumne Meadows

Route
Happy Isles → Tuolumne Meadows
Distance
24 mi
Elevation gain
5,300 ft

Southbound, the John Muir Trail begins at Happy Isles, on the floor of Yosemite Valley, and immediately asks you to climb. The Mist Trail lifts you past Vernal and Nevada Falls, into Little Yosemite Valley, and up toward the high country. It is a steep introduction, but it is also the classic one: this is where John Muir's trail starts, and where most southbound hikers take their first steps.

I walked this stretch out of order. In 2022 I hiked it northbound, finishing at Happy Isles, and in 2020 I looped through the same high country on the High Sierra Camp trip, past Cathedral Lakes with Cathedral Peak standing over the water. Retold southbound, the trail climbs away from the Valley, threads the Cathedral Range, and drops into Tuolumne Meadows, the broad subalpine meadow on the Tuolumne River that is the first great resupply and rest of the trail.

From Tuolumne, the trail turns south in earnest, toward Donohue Pass and the boundary of the park.

Cathedral Peak and Upper Cathedral Lakes at Sunset, Yosemite National Park
Cathedral Peak and Upper Cathedral Lakes at Sunset, Yosemite National Park
This image captures the stunning beauty of Cathedral Peak and Upper Cathedral Lakes during sunset in Yosemite National Park. The still waters of the lake reflect the towering granite peak, which is bathed in the warm glow of the setting sun. The sky is ablaze with color, ranging from fiery reds and oranges to soft pinks and blues. This photo is a perfect example of why Yosemite National Park is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. The park's stunning scenery, including its towering granite peaks, cascading waterfalls, and pristine lakes, is truly awe-inspiring.
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Wildflower Symphony at Yosemite's Cathedral Peak
Wildflower Symphony at Yosemite's Cathedral Peak
This stunning photo captures the breathtaking beauty of Cathedral Peak in Yosemite National Park, surrounded by a vibrant symphony of wildflowers. The jagged granite peak rises majestically above the lush meadow, its towering presence dwarfing the delicate blooms below. A profusion of lupines in every shade of blue and purple paints the meadow in a riotous tapestry of color. Their delicate petals sway gently in the breeze, creating a mesmerizing spectacle. The contrast between the rugged peak and the delicate lupines is simply breathtaking, creating a scene that is both awe-inspiring and ethereal. It is a reminder of the beauty and diversity of nature, and the perfect way to celebrate the arrival of spring.
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Towering Vernal Falls in Yosemite
Towering Vernal Falls in Yosemite
This photo captures the stunning beauty of Vernal Falls, one of the most iconic waterfalls in Yosemite National Park. The 317-foot waterfall cascades over a series of granite steps, surrounded by lush green trees and towering cliffs. The mist from the falls fills the air, creating a rainbow on sunny days. Vernal Falls is a popular destination for hikers of all levels, and the Mist Trail offers stunning views of the falls as you ascend. In the spring, when the snowmelt is high, the falls are especially impressive. Whether you're a photographer, nature lover, or simply looking for a breathtaking sight, Vernal Falls is a must-see when visiting Yosemite National Park.
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TullyHole
TullyHole
Tully Hole is a significant landmark on the John Muir Trail. It is right after Virginia Lake towards Silver Pass. There are some magnificent photos of Tully Hole on the Internet. When we crossed Virginia Lake, thunderstorms started. There is a sharp climb after the lake, so we hustled. In a rush to get to the campground at Squaw lake, which was about two miles away, I took a wrong turn, then in a haste to correct, jumped off the side trail and promptly rolled my ankle as well. I was in general agony and we were pushing uphill quite rapidly, we completely missed the fact that we were crossing Tully Hole and take in the scenery. I have one or two photos of the area, with trees obstructing the view - we missed all the clear views behind us since we were so focused on getting to Squaw lake. When I look back at this photograph and the clouds, I remember exactly how we felt that day and how we waited in the lighting squat position among these trees for a bit when we heard thunder and somehow managed to get to Squaw lake without being drenched. That reminds me that I should go back to Virginia lake and to Tully Hole area some day.
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